Reliable Supplier 11″ C-clamp Locking Pliers Factory from Seattle
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Every member from our high efficiency sales team values customers' needs and business communication for Reliable Supplier 11″ C-clamp Locking Pliers Factory from Seattle, Welcome to visit us at any time for business relationship established.
Basic Information
■Model Number: RL-DLQ019
Additional Information
■Material: A3# steel (Q235) or 45# steel
■Size: 11”
■Surface Treatment: Nickel-plated, Zinc-plated, Black Oxide, Electrophoresis
■Heat Treatment: Optional
■Package: Blister Card, Suction Card, Tie Card, Double Blister Card
■OEM: Acceptable
■HS Code: 8203200000
■Samples: For FREE
■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity
■Packing: By standard cartons
Product Description
■Mainly used for clamping parts to rivet, weld, grind and so on, which is characterized by the powerful clamp force produced by the jaw. It can lock tight so that the parts won’t fetch away. Besides, jaws have a lot of levels to adjust for the use of different thickness of parts, and it also can be used as a wrench.
■Flexible using, long life and good tenacity.
■The screw tuning button can give the best clamp size easily.
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Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a 2 wheel drive 1997 to 2004 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7L V8. When ordering a new wheel bearing, you will also have to order a new locking nut because this particular model uses nylon locking nut which cannot be reused. Other styles use a castellated nut which has a cotter pin to lock it into place rather than using a nylon insert built within the nut. This particular tutorial was done on a 2003 Dodge Dakota 2wd.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-jack/axle stand
-large slip joint pliers or c clamp
-14mm socket
-21mm socket
-bungie cord
-hammer
-1-3/8″ socket
-ratchet set
-emery paper or an abrasive pad
-degreaser
-rag
-torque wrench
-new spindle lock nut
-new spindle/wheel bearing assembly
Procedure:
-safety raise the vehicle using a jack, support with a jack stand, and remove the wheel
-loosen the master cylinder reservoir so when you depress the pistons in the caliper, it doesn’t build up an access pressure in the system
-remove the two 14mm bolts from the caliper, then depress the pistons while the caliper is in place using a large pair of slip joint pliers or a c-clamp
-once you’ve removed the caliper, tie it into place with a bungie cord so there isn’t any strain on the brake line
-next remove the caliper carrier which is held on by two 21mm bolts on the backside
-once the carrier is removed, remove the rotor next
-if the rotor is stuck on, you can hit the rotor with a hammer in between the lugs to rattle it loose
-now you can remove the hub using a 1-3/8″ socket
-if the hub is slightly stuck on, you can tap the rear with a hammer considering you’ll be replacing the bearing and it doesn’t matter about the old bearings
-you can also use a puller if you wish
-clean the spindle shaft of any rust or grim in order for the new one to fit
-use emery paper or an abrasive pad to clean up the spindle shaft, then wipe clean with a degreaser and rag
-the new hub assembly is a sliding fit setup
-once the hub is in place, you can now install the new locking nylon locking nut (torque spec is 185ft lbs or 251nm)
-caliper slide pin torque specs are 22 ft lbs or 30nm
-assembly in reverse of disassembly
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
https://www.rhinotools.com.au/62-ratchet-cable-crimping-tools
Our new release open barrel crimping tool with 6.3mm tab locator. Makes crimping open barrel terminals easy by freeing up a hand