Massive Selection for U-shape small Tweezers Factory in Italy
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To constantly improve the management system by virtue of the rule of "sincerely, good faith and quality are the base of enterprise development", we widely absorb the essence of related products internationally, and constantly develop new products to meet the demands of customers for Massive Selection for U-shape small Tweezers Factory in Italy, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and mutual success!
Basic Information
■Model Number: RL-NZ010A
Additional Information
■Material: Q195 Cold-rolled Steel
■Thickness: 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm
■Surface Treatment: Chrome Plated
■Finish: Polished
■Package: Suction Card
■OEM: Acceptable
■HS Code: 8203200000
■Samples: For FREE
■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity
■Packing: By standard cartons
Attention
■Do not heat it.
■Do not take acid drugs with it.
■Keep it clean after using it.
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This is the installation of a pipe clamp vise that was a gift to me. It was made by Bob Lee. Thank you Bob Lee!
Bob Lee’s video on how it was made:
As per request, here is the list of stuff you need to complete this job.
Parts:
- Set of rear brake pads
- 2 new rear rotors
Greases, Lubricants and Fluids:
- Anti-Seize: to lubricate caliper bolt threads and the clips that the edges of the pads sit on
- Brake and Parts Cleaner: to clean the anti-rust coating off the rotor
- Silicone paste: (DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED GREASES!!!)
3M is good, or a squeeze tube of a product called Syl Glyde is what I use to lubricate the sliders and the back of the pad to prevent squealing.
- Spray lube: to help coax the bleeder screw out, and spraying some on the dust boot before rewinding the piston helps prevent the boot from binding while twisting the piston
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid: if you need to crack the bleeder screw, top off the reservoir with fresh fluid
Tools:
17mm (13/16″) socket and 1/2″ breaker bar: to remove wheel
Longnose Pliers: to get the stupid plastic lug nut caps off
Channellock pliers: to hold slider in place while removing caliper bolts
3/8″ ratchet
13mm socket: to remove caliper bolts
3/8″ 3″ long extension
piston re tractor tool: to push piston back into bore, use with 3/8″ ratchet and extension
11mm 6 point socket: to break loose bleeder screw
11mm wrench: for opening and closing bleeder screw once broken loose
#2 Philips screwdriver: to undo rotor screw
impact driver: if the rotor screw doesn’t come out, or you could drill the screw out if that doesn’t work
Big flat blade screwdriver: used for many things, like prying off calipers and brake pads
pry bar: optional, but useful for getting stuck things unstuck, such as the stuck rotor (use at your own discretion though)
Hammer: also useful for getting really stuck things unstuck (again, use at your own discretion)
In this video I demonstrate how to replace the rear brakes and rotors in a 2004 VW jetta, this car was exceptionally frustrating because it has a special screw type caliper, which did not want to retract back into the caliper, instead it just spun in place. If this happens, you need to pinch off the brake line, open the bleeder screw, and then screw the piston back in.
I am not responsible for any mishaps that may have occurred from following these procedures. I do this to help you, the car owner, and cannot assume responsibility for any problems. Please use this information to help yourself, good luck, and take care.
-6speeddakota