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I lost the key socket, and had to change the tires over to winters as soon as possible, so I didn’t have time to order a replacement key. This method produces minimal damage to the nut itself, and once I do find the key, they will work like new again. I used a 3/4″ 12-point 1/2″Dr. socket for this demonstration. The socket does show some damage, but if you use the right size for your nuts, you should still be able be use the socket. You really shouldn’t be using 12-point sockets for normal use anyway; they tend to round off and strip nuts.

***This video is for demonstration purposes only, and the procedures depicted are not meant to be imitated under any circumstances for any reason. In no event will I be held responsible or liable in any way shape or form for your actions directly or indirectly relating to this video and its contents.
In other words; use only on your own tires or tires you have express permission from the owner of the car to take off.
Don’t steal!

HOW TO FIX TO BRAKES STICKING AND PULLING TO ONE SIDE. How To Diagnose and Replace a Bad Brake Caliper
Collapsed brake hose: A brake hose that has collapsed can cause calipers to move unevenly, also causing the vehicle to pull to one side when braking. Worn suspension parts: Suspension components wear out over time and can cause a variety of problems, one of which is the car pulling to one side when driving or braking
If you hit the brakes (spelled “brakes”) and your car pulls to the LEFT, you have a problem on the RIGHT side of the car. Either the hose has collapsed internally and is blocked or there is a problem with the caliper, and it is not grabbing the rotor on that side, therefore shooting you over to the other side which is working good. The opposite is true if the car pulls to the RIGHT…problem with the LEFT side.

Every few years, you HAVE to replace the rubber hoses, it’s that simple. I’ve learned this the hard way. They WILL get old and stop working, and this is really dangerous for you, your passenger, and others on the road. Also, when replacing brake hoses, replace the calipers while you’re down there. They’re EXTREMELY cheap ($15 at AutoZone w/ a $10 core) and they’re practically off during the job. You should bleed the brakes anyway so why not put new stuff back on. (If you’re running braided lines, the hoses obviously aren’t an issue.)

When you replace brake pads and shoes, you NEED to flush out the old fluid between the master/prop valve and the calipers. Most of us (including me up until recently), just press the caliper piston back in, install the new pads, throw the caliper back on and head back out on the road. This is incorrect. You need to get the old fluid out. A good way to do this is to get a fairly big C clamp or a pair of large Vice Grips and two small flat pieces of steel and pinch the hose between the jaws of the pliers/clamp, open the bleeder screw, and while pushing the caliper piston back in, drain the old fluid into a container (being environmentally safe here). Then shut the bleeder screw, install new pads and the caliper, and bleed the brakes, forcing newer, clean fluid down into the caliper. Always recheck your fluid level to ensure you have enough stuff in there after the brake job. I know in the brake world it’s belief that “bigger is better”, but even a properly working stock disc/drum brake system will haul your car down in no time
Fixing Brakes That Pull To One Side
brake calliper sticking one side how much does this … is hanging up but when I hit the brakes
How to Diagnose and Repair a Sticking Brake Caliper
Diagnosing drum brakes that pull to one side
How to Change Front and rear Brake Pads and Rotors
Rotors stuck
wheel cylinder replacement