China supplier OEM 7″ Forehand Round-Jaw Locking Pliers Export to St. Petersburg

China supplier OEM
 7″ Forehand Round-Jaw Locking Pliers Export to St. Petersburg

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With our rich experience and considerate services, we have been recognized as a reliable supplier for many international buyers for China supplier OEM 7″ Forehand Round-Jaw Locking Pliers Export to St. Petersburg, Welcome to visit us at any time for business relationship established.


Basic  Information


■Model Number: RL-DLQ003

Additional Information


■Material: A3# steel (Q235) or 45# steel

■Size: 7”

■Surface Treatment: Nickel-plated, Zinc-plated, Black Oxide, Electrophoresis

■Heat Treatment: Optional

■Package: Blister Card, Suction Card, Tie Card, Double Blister Card

■OEM: Acceptable

■HS Code: 8203200000

■Samples: For FREE

■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity

■Packing: By standard cartons

Product Description


■Mainly used for clamping parts to rivet, weld, grind and so on, which is characterized by the powerful clamp force produced by the jaw. It can lock tight so that the parts won’t fetch away. Besides, jaws have a lot of levels to adjust for the use of different thickness of parts, and it also can be used as a wrench.

■Flexible using, long life and good tenacity.

■The screw tuning button can give the best clamp size easily.

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  • Learning!



    Hey everyone. In my last video I briefly explained the benefits of installing stainless steel brake lines and then showed you how to install them onto the front of a Honda S2000. Today I’m going to show you how to install them onto the rear of a Honda S2000.

    Tools necessary:
    - 14mm socket
    - 12mm socket
    - 10mm flare nut wrench
    - 17mm open end wrench
    - Pliers
    - Hammer
    - Flathead Screwdriver (optional)

    Steps.
    1. If your car isn’t on jackstands already, get the car on jackstands and remove the wheels.
    2. Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the parking brake shield in place. With the parking brake shield removed use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the brake line to brake line mount.
    3. Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper. Be prepared as brake fluid will flow out from the line once it is loose.
    4. Use a 10mm flare nut wrench to loosen the hard brake line from the rubber brake line. Once the hard line is fully separated use some pliers to remove the brake line clip. Pull from side to side until it comes loose. Depending on the stainless steel line kit that you purchased you may need to re use this clip, so don’t throw it away.
    5. At this point you should be able to completely remove the brake line. If it is stuck use a hammer or mallet to break it loose. Insert the new stainless steel brake line into place.
    6. Hand tighten the hard brake line to the new stainless steel brake line. Once it is too tight to hand tighten, use a 17mm wrench to hold the stainless steel brake line in place while using the 10mm flare nut wrench to tighten the hard line. Torque the hard line to 11 ft-lbs. Finally, don’t forget to replace the brake line clip! Use a hammer and a flathead screwdriver to tap it back into place.
    7. Now it is time to install the brake line onto the caliper. Carefully insert the new crush washers onto both sides of the brake line and insert the banjo bolt through the brake line. Carefully thread the banjo bolt into the caliper and hand tighten it. Make sure the brake line is oriented properly, it should fit nicely between two points on the caliper. Once you’re ready to torque down the banjo bolt it s really important to know you should NOT torque the banjo bolt to the OEM torque specification. Your stainless steel brake line kit should have come with instructions that specify the torque specification. The stainless steel brake line kit that I used specified 12/14 ft-lbs as you can see. If you torque the new banjo bolts to the OEM torque specification they will break. Trust me, I’ve done it before.
    8. Secure the new stainless steel brake line to the mouting tab by using a 10mm socket and ratchet to fasten the two bolts.Torque them to 7 ft-lbs. Replace the parking brake shield and fasten the two bolts holding it in place with a 10mm socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 7 ft-lbs as well.
    9. I mentioned this in the last video but.. since you replaced the brake lines there is now a ton of air in the brake system. Be absolutely sure to bleed the brake system at least once before driving the car. Check the description below for a DIY on brake bleeding the S2000.
    10. Once you have bled the brakes install the wheels and lower the car back down to the ground. Go for a test drive and make sure the brake pedal doesn’t feel spongy. If the pedal feels spongy bleed the brakes again.

    Brake Bleed Reference Video: https://youtu.be/igh5hGwm478

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