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I’ve done a lot of four-wheeling over the last 20 years and I’ve had a lot of learning experiences. Trail fixes sometimes breed some very creative thinking. One time we had a braided steel brake line get snagged by a large tree limb that we had driven over. The limb tore the brake line right out of it’s fitting. Not having a spare brake line, we resorted to using a pair of vice-grips, ductaped to a rear shock to clamp the brake line down to keep it from leaking. Yeah, it worked…sort of…but that kind of a fix always leaves you wondering for the whole rest of the drive, if it’s going to fail at any moment.

I thought about it for a while until it dawned on me that I could just carry some kind of plug to plug the brake line at it’s last junction. By taking a brake fitting and welding over the top of it while retaining the flared piece of hard line (to seal against the cone of the female portion of the fitting) a perfect plug (that will not leak) is created. You can isolate the problem and fix it. You can block off the system at different points as necessary. You can eliminate individual wheel’s or the entire front or rear systems.

It obviously goes without saying that eliminating brakes from a vehicle is going to cause you issues, so use prudence and caution. This is just a trick for getting you out of the woods, or wilderness, or desert a little quicker and a little cleaner.

Here’s how to service or change the parking brakes on a Toyota or Lexus with rear disc brakes.

Behind the rear rotors are a set of shoes that contact the inside of the drum for the hand-brake. Depending on use, the shoes may wear out or the assembly may seize up from lack of use.

Periodic servicing of the brakes is essential to keeping them working in top shape.

This video shows step by step how to change or refurbish the rear parking brakes on a Toyota Solara. Procedure is the same as the Toyota Camry, Sienna, Highlander, RAV4 and Avalon and the Lexus ES300, ES330, ES350, RX300, RX330, RX350.

The parking brake drum, which is part of the brake rotor, must first be removed. There are some springs that keep tension on the shoes that need to be removed using a needle-nose pliers, or a special drum brake tool.

Once the parking brake shoes are free, the cable spring is compressed to remove the cable from the shoe. A non-reusable C-clip must then be removed to free the shoe from the horse shoe bracket.

Replace shoes when the thickness of the pad material gets below 1mm, or you can see the rivets in the metal below.

There are several lubricating points where the shoe grinds up against the backing plate that need to have some lubrication. The video calls out these six points with a diagram from the service manual.