9 Years manufacturer 6-PCS small Tweezer Sets to Nigeria Factories
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Our goal is to provide high quality products at competitive prices, and top-notch service to customers around the world. We are ISO9001, CE, and GS certified and strictly adhere to their quality specifications for 9 Years manufacturer 6-PCS small Tweezer Sets to Nigeria Factories, As we are moving forward, we keep an eye on our ever-expanding product range and make improvement to our services.
Basic Information
■Model Number: RL-NZ009A
Additional Information
■Material: Q195 Cold-rolled Steel
■Thickness: 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm
■Surface Treatment: Chrome Plated
■Finish: Polished
■Package: Suction Card
■OEM: Acceptable
■HS Code: 8203200000
■Samples: For FREE
■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity
■Packing: By standard cartons
Attention
■Do not heat it.
■Do not take acid drugs with it.
■Keep it clean after using it.
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Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a 2 wheel drive 1997 to 2004 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7L V8. When ordering a new wheel bearing, you will also have to order a new locking nut because this particular model uses nylon locking nut which cannot be reused. Other styles use a castellated nut which has a cotter pin to lock it into place rather than using a nylon insert built within the nut. This particular tutorial was done on a 2003 Dodge Dakota 2wd.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-jack/axle stand
-large slip joint pliers or c clamp
-14mm socket
-21mm socket
-bungie cord
-hammer
-1-3/8″ socket
-ratchet set
-emery paper or an abrasive pad
-degreaser
-rag
-torque wrench
-new spindle lock nut
-new spindle/wheel bearing assembly
Procedure:
-safety raise the vehicle using a jack, support with a jack stand, and remove the wheel
-loosen the master cylinder reservoir so when you depress the pistons in the caliper, it doesn’t build up an access pressure in the system
-remove the two 14mm bolts from the caliper, then depress the pistons while the caliper is in place using a large pair of slip joint pliers or a c-clamp
-once you’ve removed the caliper, tie it into place with a bungie cord so there isn’t any strain on the brake line
-next remove the caliper carrier which is held on by two 21mm bolts on the backside
-once the carrier is removed, remove the rotor next
-if the rotor is stuck on, you can hit the rotor with a hammer in between the lugs to rattle it loose
-now you can remove the hub using a 1-3/8″ socket
-if the hub is slightly stuck on, you can tap the rear with a hammer considering you’ll be replacing the bearing and it doesn’t matter about the old bearings
-you can also use a puller if you wish
-clean the spindle shaft of any rust or grim in order for the new one to fit
-use emery paper or an abrasive pad to clean up the spindle shaft, then wipe clean with a degreaser and rag
-the new hub assembly is a sliding fit setup
-once the hub is in place, you can now install the new locking nylon locking nut (torque spec is 185ft lbs or 251nm)
-caliper slide pin torque specs are 22 ft lbs or 30nm
-assembly in reverse of disassembly
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
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