13 Years Manufacturer 11″ C-clamp Locking Pliers Supply to Uruguay

Short Description:

Product Detail

Product Tags

We always stick to the principle "Quality First, Prestige Supreme". We are fully committed to providing our clients with competitively priced quality products, prompt delivery and professional service for 13 Years Manufacturer 11″ C-clamp Locking Pliers Supply to Uruguay, If you are interested in any of our items, please don't hesitate to contact us and take the first step to build up a successful business relationship.

Basic Information

■Model Number: RL-DLQ019

Additional Information

■Material: A3# steel (Q235) or 45# steel

■Size: 11”

■Surface Treatment: Nickel-plated, Zinc-plated, Black Oxide, Electrophoresis

■Heat Treatment: Optional

■Package: Blister Card, Suction Card, Tie Card, Double Blister Card

■OEM: Acceptable

■HS Code: 8203200000

■Samples: For FREE

■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity

■Packing: By standard cartons

Product Description

■Mainly used for clamping parts to rivet, weld, grind and so on, which is characterized by the powerful clamp force produced by the jaw. It can lock tight so that the parts won’t fetch away. Besides, jaws have a lot of levels to adjust for the use of different thickness of parts, and it also can be used as a wrench.

■Flexible using, long life and good tenacity.

■The screw tuning button can give the best clamp size easily.

Product Image

Previous:

Next: 5″ Forehand Curved Jaw Locking Pliers

Hex Key Ikea

Light Tweezers

Long Thin Tweezers

Vise Grip Vs Pliers

Hi, this ‘How To’ video show you how to use a RJ45 Crimping tool, it shows you the difference features of the tool and the process of crimping 8P8C Ethernet RJ45 plugs onto either Cat5e or Cat6 Cable. The tool can be used on both stranded and solid core cable.
Many thanks Vince

This tutorial is for an 05 ZX6r, but the same method can be used to change any motorcycle chain.

Instructions:
Start by removing the front sprocket cover.
Save this bolt for last. (bike specific)
Inspect both the front and rear sprockets. If they are worn they must be replaced to prevent premature ware to the new chain.
Now remove the cotter pin from the rear axle nut, and loosen the axle. You will also need to turn in the chain adjusters so that you can slid the axle forwards.
Grind the face off of one of the chain links.
It should look like this when you are finished.
Assemble the chain cutting tool in the proper configuration.
Tighten the tool onto the chain and turn the handle to drive the pin through the chain.
Your new chain will likely need to be cut down.
The chain I purchased has 120 links on it, so I will be removing 10 links so that it will match the 110 link chain that I just removed.
Here you can see the pin that has been removed from the chain.
Roll the chain onto the sprockets.
Make sure to put an O-ring on both sides of the master link then insert it into the new chain. Place two more O-rings on the master link, and then install the front plate.
The front plate will need to be pressed on. Make sure that it goes on evenly, and matches the other outer links.
Now assemble you riveting tool in the proper configuration.
Tighten tool onto the chain but be careful not to compress the front plate. Turn the handle to flair the rivet. You can use a wrench for better leverage.
A proper flair should be between 0.152mm and 0.5mm Over flaring the rivet can cause it to crack or burst.
The rivet on the left has been properly flared.
Set the chain slack. Mine calls for 30-35 mm or 1.2-1.4 in. (most chains fall into this range)
torque the rear axle nut 94 ft bl in this case. (bike specific)
Install new cotter pin.
Check for kinks in the chain
Reinstall front sprocket cover
This bolt first (bike specific)